In memorance of Suby: 1999-2010

About two months before college graduation, I realized I needed to learn how to drive if I wanted to get a job on a political campaign.  Us City-born folk rarely have the need or opportunity to learn.  To the great credit of the Razor, Lis Smith and a couple Panarchists, I passed the incredibly easy New Hampshire test on June 13th, and received Suby, a ’99 Legacy Outback, as my mom and uncle’s graduation present.  The maroon manic was built for road trips- its trunk could hold innumerable duffel bags, boxes and assorted goods acquired on the road.  It got 30 miles to the gallon when the AC wasn’t blasting or the car wasn’t gunning at 80 miles per hour. During the Bush era, we went everywhere together.

In Hartford, Connecticut, where I spent two months with the DNC, Andy Walton, oblivious to my total lack of driving skills, gave me some of the most car intensive Assistant Director work, like driving canvassers out to the field and scoping neighborhoods for afternoon targeting.   That job begat the Stephanie Herseth campaign gig in South Dakota.   Despite my highly limited driving skills, my endurance was strong enough to handle the long solo trips that would become the staple of my post college years.  On my third morning, blasting through western Wisconsin rocking to “I Fought the Law”, a cop slapped me with a $270 speeding ticket (later reduced to $200 for no apparent reason).    It was the first of many speeding tickets we’d rack up together.  One time in northern New York, on a trip back from Biloxi, a cop pulled me over in a work zone going 15 over, which is not good.  I saw him looking at my plates, so I put on my best Mississippi drawl.  He was sympathetic, and explained that up in New York, orange cones represented work zones, where you needed to slow down, and let me be on my way.  Orange cones, for the home-bound reader, represent work zones everywhere.

Suby got her name from Sameeta, a Hartford buddy. Not the most creative name, but everyone seemed to like it.  Suby and I did not like South Dakota, with its hardline conservatism and endless dust, so we set out for Vegas.  Vegas is a tough town to take care of your car in, because drunks are swerving through the streets at all hours.  Someone pulling out of a parking lot once badly dented my front door- at ten in the morning while I was getting coffee.  With Grant and Leigh in town at the end of the campaign, the four of us were ready for a massive cross country adventure that took us through nine states in ten days.  In Knoxville, the car began steaming and rattling anytime it was pushed more than 15 mph.  Grant and Leigh had their own erroneous theories, but after Suby’s first tow truck ride, we learned there was just some screw loose.  The guy fixed it for $50.

During the Biloxi days of 2005-2006, Suby went through its time of troubles.  Some hick smashed into us in Waveland, causing substantial body damage, and jacking up my insurance rates. The alarm system got finicky, getting loud, angry and hard to turn off whenever someone opened the doors of the car out of order.  This caused me and my equally raggedy looking buddy Guillermo problems in Kentucky, where people kept thinking we were trying to steal our own car.   Suby’s tendency to overheat badly in traffic was starting to worsen- this required blasting hot air through the vents, which was incredibly unpleasant during the summer, when rolling down the windows only made things worse.  For all you car half-wonks out there, blasting the AC does NOT solve the problem.  But these two years were also some of the best bonding I ever did with Suby.  I found that a perfectly good mattress could spread out in the trunk when you folded down the backseat.  This meant on long solo trips I could find $5 overnight parking in some downtown garage, and curl up to sleep in the back of the car after the night’s adventures.

By the time I moved to Williamsburg, Suby was 130,000 miles deep, and content to live as an urban car, used for moving furniture, short road trips and the like. We did our last New Orleans run in 2007, and our last cross country road trip in 2008, which cost Suby its sunroof.  There’s a picture somewhere on Facebook of me and Brett feverishly duct-taping it to the rest of the car.

Oh, there it is…Rather than deal with the hassle of re-registration and storing it somewhere during my trip to Liberia, I put the word out for a free car, which was soon claimed by Brett’s sister Britt.  In return for getting Suby free, Britt merely had to give me first right of return, which she did this September.   I gave Suby a quizzical look at our East Village reunion.   As soon as work starts at Hogan, the thought of owning a car in New York, with all its parking and registration hassles would be downright foolish.  Thus the idea of one last whirlwind road trip around the country was born.  It is somewhat ironic that Nate was behind the wheel when Suby bit the dust in Idaho, as we had just decided he would get the car after the road trip ended.

The final count- six and a half years together, during which we logged 110,000 miles, through 43 states, Montreal and Toronto..  When I found out I was getting several hundred dollars for the parts I thought, ‘that’s more severance than I’ve ever gotten for breaking up with a girlfriend.’  But then, I’ve spent far more money on Suby than any other person.  She was a girl with constant crises, who but for the amazing times we sometimes had together I would have split with years ago.   There are no plans in the near future for a new car, but even if I cross that bridge down the road, I’ll never forget my first.   Suby, it’s been a good ride.

 

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Great American Road Trip: Day 6 (Death in the Afternoon)

After a mediocre night in ballyhooed Missoula and a quick dip in the Bel Aire Motel pool, the Senge-Marton team had its second major crisis (the stalled car in Teddy Roosevelt Park was the first).  Nate wanted to split off and rent a car so he could go hiking in the mountains.  This was understandable.  The mountains of Montana are majestic, daunting and inviting at the same time.  But as we wandered half-lost look for the car rental lot, Nate had a change of heart. We were driving to Seattle.

At the Idaho border we got out of the car to take in the sweeping mountains and endless pines.  The air was completely fresh, and easily the coldest we’d felt all trip. About fifteen minutes later, as we drove down in Idaho, the car began rabidly overheating.  We pulled over on the highway, and the car steamed.  Our hunch was that the emergency break had somehow kicked into place, which overstressed the car motor, which was now speeding with the brake on.  This theory was never proven, nor disproven, like the existence of a higher god.

After thirty minutes of letting the car cool, we were able to start it again, though only for half a mile before it overheated again.  It was time for AAA.  They took their sweet time, leaving us in drab and depressing arms of Kellogg, Idaho.  The region we were in was described by Lonely Planet as scenic, with great mountains and lakes, “but also, unfortunately, some racist bastards.”  It’s a damning quote, coming from the usually highly reserved Lonely Planet.

As AAA was on their way, a local mechanic stopped and looked at our car.  He was a nice kid, and offered to fix and replace our blow radiator for $350.   Nate and I both felt bad when we had to turn down his services because the big garage outfit down the road was offering the same for $250.  The garage was in Coeur d’Alene, a massive vacation town on a stunning lake in the north Idaho panhandle.  The tow-truck driver was an ‘aw-shucks’ fella named Steve who had lived there his whole life.  When I asked him why the town had a French name, unlike any other we’d seen in the region, he paused.  “You know, I don’t have any idea.  But now that you mention it, that is strange.  That’s a good question.”

When we arrived at the car repair shop, we were in for a rude surprise.  “Everyone’s home for the weekend,” announced the manager.  It was Saturday at 2pm.   No one would be able to even look at our car until Monday.  This after we had turned down the small-time mechanic in Kellogg who could have fixed it that afternoon.  We felt angry and terrible at the same time.  Sensing these emotions, the manager, named Rick, offered to take a look at it.   He came back with good news, sort of.

“Your radiator is fine.”  His explanation made us realize that we easily could have spent $250 or $350 for nothing.  He agreed on our explanation for the cause of the overheating.  “Right now your car should be fine to drive.” He rattled off some highway pit stops in eastern Washington, then predicted, “either nothing is wrong with your car, or something is really wrong with it.”  Literally minutes after leaving his lot, we found out the answer.  At a red light, the car overheated so badly that we couldn’t even make it back to Rick’s lot.  When we made it back on foot, his secretary informed us that Rick was gone for the weekend.   We finally did get in touch with him, and he advised us to try Randy, another mechanic just three blocks down the road.

Turns out three strip mall blocks are quite a walk.  Not only was our car busted, but the windows were stuck in the down position, so we had to lug our stuff with us so it wouldn’t get stolen.  Tired, sweaty and worried, we arrived at Randy’s.  Randy was certain, after our descriptions, that we had a blown gasket.  He calculated that between parts and labor, that would run us about $1300.  Having decided at the outset that anything north of $500 would probably lead to Suby’s demise, I asked if he knew any mechanic that would consider buying the car for the parts.  He could only think of one, and got us his card.  It was Rick.

One cliché that I actually believe is that it’s often darkest before dawn.  At this point it was past 4pm, with the few remaining business of any use to us closing by 5 for the rest of the weekend.  We had nowhere to stay, no way to get to Seattle, and Nate had a plane to catch in 48 hours.  Even if we could get out of town without paying for a costly cab, we couldn’t just leave Suby in a parking lot abandoned.

Dejected, we lugged our stuff back to Rick’s. The secretary got him on the phone, and we made our pitch.   We’d leave the car with him, mail him the title, and he’d get the best deal he could on the parts. In the end he turned out to be a great guy, and easy to do business with.   He got his son to drive to Spokane, a much bigger town with direct bus lines to Seattle.  Before we got on the road, I had Nate take a final picture of me and Suby.  That bastard and I had a lot of amazing times together, and as I ride the bus to Portland tomorrow, I’ll be churning out a tribute to the car that for so long was the source of and solution to so many of my trials and tribulations.   After six and half years, and 110,000 miles, it was time to move on, with or without the best road trip partner I ever had.

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Great American Road Trip: Day 5 (Part 2)

We were literally on our way out of the park when we ran into these guys.

 

 

And these guys.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We also found the Excelsior Geyser, which, while way less famous than Old Faithful, has unreal colors and massive plumes of gas and steam.

If not for the  roadway sounds in the distance, this was definitely a candidate for another planet.  Not since the Bolivia Salt Flats (pictured in this blog’s header) had I been so mesmerized by nature.

 

 

 

This last picture didn’t turn out great- the fog made picture-taking tough, but check out the stream in the background.  It’s slime-colored green. Pretty mind-blowing…

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Great American Road Trip: Day 5

I’ve fallen behind badly in keeping these posts up to date, but as you’ll soon see, there is a reason for everything under the sun.  For now, enjoy these photos from Yellowstone, which speak for themselves.  We had a terrific day there, and I could not recommend checking it out more strongly.

First, let’s look at some geysers and their crazy colors.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nate and I climbed Bunson’s Peak and became very light-headed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And of course, gotta check out Old Faithful.  After expecting the worst in the way of tourist scene, it turned out to be a chill crowd.  The Old Faithful Grill even served good food and cool micro-brewed beer.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A second round of pictures to come later…

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Great American Road Trip: Day 4

Poor man wanna be rich                              Rich man wanna be king                             King ain’t satisfied until he rules everything                                                      I’m going out tonight, I’m gonna find out what I’ve got

– Bruce Springsteen, Badlands (1975)

Man am I exhausted.  Today is technically Day 5, but the constant wear and tear of being either on the road or out on the town has put me a day behind. Here is a recap of the madhouse that was yesterday.

I picked up Nate, and we slammed out 150 miles or so before dropping in the Theodore Roosevelt National Park.  As you can see, it is gorgeous, just a mesmerizing slice of the Badlands.

Things quickly went south in the valley.  We returned from a saunter in the meadow to find that my car was not starting, a problem that has reared it’s head periodically over the years.  The last major time this happened was almost two years ago, and required towing and repairs at a Subaru shop.  Not an attractive thing to run back literally hundreds of miles from the nearest major city.

A kindly old couple was the first vehicle to come by.  As fate would have it, the old man used to be a car mechanic in Australia, and had his gear with him.  After some serious trial and error, he was able to adjust the starter, and boom, we were off.

There were some awkward moments to come.  At a saloon in eastern Montana I stopped in for a coffee, drawing looks from the whole crowd. It didn’t help when I spilled the cream and then almost accidentally knocked over the waitress’s giant serving of chicken.  I left to more stares than when I entered.

At a drive through McDonald’s I ordered a fish fillet, which literally sent the staff into a huddle.  About five minutes after we’d paid, I was asked if I could wait in the parking lot for the manager to bring me my food personally, as cars were now lining up behind us.   It took another ten minutes before they found the nearest stream to procure a fish, and the manager sheepishly brought me my fillet.

In Bozeman, which we finally made it to, we were hosted by an awesome crew, who took us out to see the Emancipator, some DJ from Portland.  He was aight, though it was strange observing 50 people watching a “DJ” fiddle with his laptop- not much a visual performance (though the light show was pretty dope).  The venue was great- cheap drinks, good people, and a video golf game that Nate and I were playing even as the Emancipator began his set, which so shocked a local photographer that he was compelled to photograph us.

All in all, a long day that turned out great, after precarious moments.  No sleeping in the valley of the Badlands tonight…

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Great American Road Trip: Day 3

Another seven hour drive day turned out to be more of a slog than I thought. The scenery in eastern North Dakota is rather drab farmland- a lot of wheat from what I can gather. Day 3 was another ten hours of repetitive classic rock and mindless talk radio.  It really seems that qualifications to get onto local talk radio are pretty low.

Bismarck is a town with not a whole lot to offer.  My couchsurfing hosts were like a little oasis of awesomeness, with locally grown organic foot, a comfortable guest bedroom, and a very rare (for the region) blend of progressive politics.   They sent me to the only cool local bar in town, the Walrus, which had a good beer selection, but was otherwise a decent bar trapped in a strip mall.  The North Dakota capital building is perhaps the ugliest one I’ve ever seen, though it was nice to jog around its park in the morning.  The town was deathly still, even at 9am.   I picked up Nate Senge from the airport and we were off to the Badlands.   Now that was a story, and it’ll be up on the web as soon as I have time to do it justice….Off to Yellowstone National Park!

Oh and by the way, that picture is of what is declares as the largest steel geese statue in the United States.  Represent…

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Great American Road Trip: Day 2

Listening to the soothing voice of Chicago Public Radio, I departed the Gates to the West, and began the road trip in earnest.   The Day 2 drive was designed to be pleasant and relaxing.  The sprawl of the Midwest gave way to a rich interplay of farms and forest scenery somewhere in eastern Illinois.   Wisconsin was relaxing on the eyes too, though I always have to stay vigilant on those highways.

Route 94 in Wisconsin has two lanes in each direction, but a lot of trucks.  What this means is anyone looking to go more than 65 mph is passing trucks constantly, which necessitates maintaining a steady clip over the speed limit.  This is how I got slammed with my first and worst speeding ticket of my life in 2004, outside the town of La Crosse.  The cop demanded that as an out of stater, I pay my ticket on the spot.  But having lost my credit card the night before, and lacking sufficient cash, I had no means of doing so.  We ended up driving to three La Crosse banks in search of one that would cash out of state checks, the cop growing progressively angrier each time.  We did not succeed, and he had to take my word that my check was good.  Needless to say, I was careful as I drove near La Crosse.  Like snakes in the grass they hide there.

I lunched in one of my favorite towns, Madison, Wisconsin.  I’ve swung through there three times on road trips, sleeping in a commune, a fraternity and my car, respectively.  Had I chosen to attend a state school- this would have been it.  I’m not sure how you beat strong academics, a great sports program you can actually root for, and leftist politics.

I love this capital building, and stop to admire it whenever I’m in town.  Was a little disappointed than one of my favorite politicians, Russ Feingold, had no presence anywhere in the state (I didn’t see a single sign), as he is on his ways to an unceremonious departure after 18 years in the Senate.

If you’ve spent any time in a rest area off interstates, you know that the most adventurous people will get is perhaps walking their dog across the grass.  That’s why when I saw a trail leading into the Black Hills Forest of northern Wisconsin, I knew I was in for a private walk in the woods.   The weather was perfect, and this wooden walkway took me alongside a hill with sweet views- I can only imagine how much more stunning it would have been a week ago, before the death of so many leaves.

I cruised into Minneapolis around 7pm, soon finding my couchsurfing hosts, Lexi and Tara.  They apparently get couchsurfers all the time in Minneapolis, which surprised me.  They were excellent hosts, taking me to the CC Club, a grungy bar in the cool part of downtown (Lyndsdale Avenue), where four different beers  were on tap for $3.

My friend Anna from the 2004 campaign joined us- it was our first time hanging out in six years.  We told stories about those crazy Vegas days.  I ordered cheese curds for the first time in my life.  For the non-Midwesterners out there, they are basically small mozzarella sticks with better quality cheese and the feel that they have been mixed with air.  Delicious with marinara sauce.   As the night wound down we went back to Tara and Lexi’s place to listen to The Suburbs on vinyl.  What more could you want from a Tuesday night?

 

 

 

 

 

 

In the morning I passed perhaps the coolest car I’ve ever seen.  Check it out:

Off to Bismark, where I’ll explore the town for the night, and collect Nate Senge in the morning.

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Great American Road Trip: Day 1

I figured if I had to do a 15-hour day on this road trip, it might as well be day 1.  I had not anticipated starting the trip hungover and exhausted from a Sunday night wedding, so the morning hours were brutal.  Thankfully, it was Columbus Day, and the whole tri-state area was clear of traffic at seven in the morning.

In the past, I’ve taken 70/76 to get across Pennsylvania, as that feeds into Columbus, Ohio, for years my launching pad into the rest of the country.  Friends from Abercrombie would be a welcome reprieve from the brutal tundra of Southern PA.  Turns out, Interstate 80 is WAY nicer. The rolling hills of the Alleghenies, which MLK gave a shout out to in his “I have a dream” speech, are gorgeous this time of year.

Unfortunately for Route 80, the governments of Ohio and Indiana think highly of it too.  Traversing the Ohio turnpike costs an astonishing $13.50, which is the most, I believe, I’ve ever paid to cross a state, shocking when you consider that Ohio is only about 4 hours wide, and not scenic in the slightest.  I guess they need the cash, though. Indiana, which takes even less time to cross, and at least offers some farmland to look at, cost $7.50.

Middlebury, Indiana is a sleepy town in the woodlands of Northern Indiana, literally minutes from the border with Michigan, which allowed me to listen to an excellent Michigan NPR affiliate for several hours.   It’s the kind of place where  people sell bundles of wood, and giant insects smash into your windshield.  It’s also the home of Sue, one of my favorite people from Biloxi days.  She lives in a dope cabin.

Sue cooked a delicious dinner, and we exchanged stories, me regaling her with tales from Liberia, her telling me about adventures in Haiti, where she worked with the group I am promoting on the “Helping Others Live the Dream” page.  Turns out Haiti and Liberia have many similarities- widespread poverty, beautiful beaches, resilient people…I wish I could have hung out at Sue’s longer, but the road always beckons.

Fifteen hours after I started my day, I pulled up to Nate Anderson’s place in Chicago.  He is an old buddy from college, and surprised me with one of the most comfortable guest bedroom beds I’ve ever slept in.  It’s now 9am, Chicago-time, and I’m off to Minneapolis, where I’ll be crashing with Couchsurfers for the first of many times during this trip.  The road will take me past Madison- maybe I’ll stop by the anarchist book store for lunch….

The midwest, particularly the northern rustbelt, is aesthetically my least favorite part of the country, so getting it done one day was very solid.  No complaints from Suby either.   To the open road…

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Silk Road Palace: Tribute Now on Facebook

As some of you undoubtedly learned over the weekend, the legendary Silk Road Palace came to a shocking end, shuttered without notice to it’s rabidly loyal customer base. We can only imagine the reason.

I am working on a full blown tribute, though being on the road for many hours a day has posed a challenge to completing it.  The 20 member support group formed over email immediately following the closure suggested a Facebook tribute group– and so here it is. I know Silk Road was beloved by at least thousands, so it will be interesting to see how many folks join in the coming weeks.

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Haiti Still Needs You

Folks, as many of you know, the most rewarding year of my life was working down in Biloxi, Mississippi with Hands On USA in the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina.   The spunky grassroots organization was on the verge of being sued for copyright by the much larger Hands On Network (the same organization that runs New York Cares) when a deal was struck to merge the groups.  The disaster response outfit still thrives today, and is hard at work rebuilding Haiti.  I’ve copied an email I received from the Project Leogane, where my good buddy Nate Harrold is working.  He called for skilled and energetic peeps to make there way down.

Project Leogane has achieved remarkable progress in our first seven months of operation. Due to the incredible scale of the needs and what we feel we are still capable to help with, Project Leogane will now run until 31 December 2011! While we expect our programs to gradually transition from early recovery and cleanup to rehabilitation and sustainable development, we will remain committed to our dual goals of benefiting the local community while providing worthwhile, enriching volunteer experiences.

If you’re interested in volunteering, please click over to our Project Leogane Volunteer Information page. We’re scheduling volunteers to be on-project from 23 January through 16 June, 2011.

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